Thread count (TC) has become the unofficial ambassador of high-quality bedding but the significant inconsistencies between price and TC paint an incoherent picture. Why does JCPenny offer a 778 TC fitted sheet for $79.99 while Frette expects $305 for a mere 240 TC? This article attempts to address the meaning of TC, the other factors that determine quality, and how to buy quality bed sheets. With 1/3 of life spent sleeping in bed, it’s important to make the right decisions.
The definition of thread count appears embedded in its name but the answer is hardly obvious. Lower-quality brands use a generous definition to boost the appeal of their bedding while high-end brands take a simpler approach. The typical technique counts the number of vertical and horizontal threads in a square inch. Fabric weaved length-wise is called warp and threads extending the width are weft. The total number of warps and wefts in a square inch determine TC.
The discrepancy between brands arises from the practice of plying yarns. Threads can be twisted together using finer cotton which effectively increases the number of threads within a given area. Since TC includes both warp and weft, double-plied cotton will quadruple TC. Bed sheets with a 250 TC can be artificially inflated to a 1,000 TC through a simple double-ply; when you triple-ply the threads, it jumps to 1,500.
Simply deflating fuzzy numbers doesn’t create an accurate comparison with high-end bed sheets. If you find the number of plies and reverse the math, other qualities still play heavy factors. In order to ply threads, manufacturers must use finer cotton. This fabric is often (not always) too fine and the bed sheets end up feeling too heavy with little breathability.[1]
The other benefit to manufacturers afforded through plying is a new ability to use low-quality cotton. A large factor in the quality of bed sheets is the length of the cotton fiber. Longer fibers are much more smooth, resistant, and uniform in thread. Plying allows manufactures to use shorter threads artificially lengthened through plying which decreases the feel and quality of your cotton sheets.[1] [2]
Fiber length brings us to the different varieties of cotton crop: